I know what you mean…I can usually buy everything from Newegg and have it delivered in a day (their warehouse is like 40 miles away), but since I live 5 minutes from a Micro Center I’ll usually pay more just to have it right away.
Other than the vibration that I can not figure out the origin of, it’s completely silent, other than the hard drive and video card fan, which only spins fast enough to be audible when I’m gaming, which drowns out the sound anyway.
Get an SSD for your boot drive. I picked up a low end 64GB Kingston SSD Now drive for like $90 and moved all my files to a 2TB Samsung Eco Drive that I swear never makes any noise.
Now my computer opens any program I throw at it almost instantly and is quiet as shit. Only thing that makes noise is my CPU Fan that I have to keep at 100% because I OC’d my Q9300.
OC performance increase depends on the CPU, whether it was a good “batch”, and the cooler. I’ve overclocked the 3 Q6600s safely with air cooling from 2.4ghz to ~3.2ghz (~33% increase). I just put in a Core i7 950 and haven’t had a chance to OC, but I have an H50 in there and from what I’ve read of others with the same setup, they were able to get it from 3.2 to 5.0ghz+.
I originally OC’d because I had a really good chip (high 11x multiplier)…an E4500 stock 2.2 OC’d to 3.0 on air with no problems at all. Probably could’ve gone higher, but I was happy with that. Also, my RAM actually runs better over-volted (there was even a sticker from the manufacturer that listed optimal settings at 2.2v vs. 1.8v stock). Mind as well up the FSB since the RAM could take it too. I do a lot of video encoding & math calculations so that helped a lot.
Now I moved to a Q9300 and that’s harder to OC with my current board because of the pitiful 7.5x multiplier, but the extra cores are definitely worth it. It’s more efficient since it’s 45nm too. Maxed my RAM out with my chip running at 3.0GHz from 2.5GHz stock. Definitely notice the increase in speed, so in my opinion, it was worth it.
But nothing sped up my system more than an SSD…even with the cheapo one I got. Can’t wait to upgrade to a Sandforce SSD, but won’t do that until I get a SATA 6Gbit/s board and an i7 proc.
A solid state drive will decrease load times because it is faster than a HDD, the issue of long term data retention and failures is constantly mentioned but at this point we do not have long term studies on the subject. Cost is a big concern, I must admit I want one and have the hardware to run it but am still holding back because of the costs. Do you have sata 3.0 connections on your motherboard, if not you do not need SSD.
Oh and if we are going to continue to have this conversation, please lets all understand the words; latency and bandwidth.
I have way too many games I play too often for anything less than a 256GB SSD to be big enough, and that shit’s expensive. That’s why I have the 300GB velociraptor instead. And I’m just talking programs installed on it, everything is stored on my RAID 5 array that’s not an installed game or program.
It looks like the case has an air vent in the bottom and is supposed to be elevated for the PSU to be able to suck in air from outside the case. But all I see are the rubber feet on the inside letting it suck in air already in the case. (Still not cut off from airflow by any means, but pulling cooler air in from outside the case to the inside. Easy cheap casemod (haha, yeah I know) would beto buy rubber feet from like a hardware store and stick em on the bottom outside of the case. then block the PSU from pulling air through that gap inside the case and it’ll get direct cool external air.
Alright, I have a few minutes to sit down and write so let me run through this;
As previously mentioned your PSU is mounted the wrong way up, if you are so concerned about air flow you should be able to understand this. Either you need to flip it or raise the case off the surface of the desk with feet or a stand. The problems with the PSU being cheap and underpowered are one thing but those Ultra PSU’s have a reputation for over heating anyway and while you irritate the hell out of me I don’t want your PC to melt. Very average to poor efficiency and poor ripple suppression. They do have nice quiet fans though.
In your other post when I mentioned sleeving you said ‘I wanted to get cable sleeves, but then I was informed that I would have to remove all of the connections to do so.’ This is so amazingly dumb for someone called casemods I can but stare in wonder at it. Yes you have to remove the molex connectors, it’s the first thing you learn to do modding, or you get a PSU sleeved by the manufacturer. The Corsair modular PSUs come highly recommended by me.
The other thing you mentioned is your graphics card overheating and crashing beyond 67C, the 5770 ‘should’ be able to take that temperature If you do some searches on that graphics card and temperatures you should see that it should be able to handle about another 10-20 degrees without crashing, that is something you should investigate further.
This one needs a firm hand, a bit of a brutal spanking. If you can come up with a rebuttal go ahead, I am working off of this guy who seems to have been trolling you guys for months if not years! Some of us spend our whole lives making wonderfull gorgeous computers, we take pride in our skill and understanding; and then we have… that.
Obvious troll is obvious, brutal put down is required.
Not enough stuff to require cable management.
The funny thing about that is, the holes are already pretty much stuffed
thats what she said
Looks like cables.
There are these thing they call cable ties, you tie cable with them, shit’s cash.
dunno why you went with air cooling when the corsair h50 and h70 are so affordable
The cpu cooler is already silent. I see no point in watercooling when I don’t overclock.
Where do you buy all your shit
KMart
Craigslist
oh and frys
the mobo and ram were bought from frys
I think Tiger Direct has more shit than Frys
I never liked ordering online.
It’s a lot easier to take it back to the store which is 15 minutes away, rather than wait days for shipping.
Tiger has stores too
In florida…
No they have some in Illinois too
When I searched, it only said florida
I know what you mean…I can usually buy everything from Newegg and have it delivered in a day (their warehouse is like 40 miles away), but since I live 5 minutes from a Micro Center I’ll usually pay more just to have it right away.
Partly that, and partly because I can take it back easily.
Also, sometimes frys is cheaper than online, sometimes not.
I think Tiger Direct rapes your wallet. Newegg.com FTW
You don’t OC? Why go through all this then? Stock cooler would work.
Well for one, silence.
2. The cpu cooler was $10.
3. The case was $10.
Other than the vibration that I can not figure out the origin of, it’s completely silent, other than the hard drive and video card fan, which only spins fast enough to be audible when I’m gaming, which drowns out the sound anyway.
Get an SSD for your boot drive. I picked up a low end 64GB Kingston SSD Now drive for like $90 and moved all my files to a 2TB Samsung Eco Drive that I swear never makes any noise.
Now my computer opens any program I throw at it almost instantly and is quiet as shit. Only thing that makes noise is my CPU Fan that I have to keep at 100% because I OC’d my Q9300.
Hmm. I just sold the netbook for $250. I’m not sure what to buy with the money. I’m torn between a roadmate 1700, a video card, a psu, and now an SSD.
But why did you OC? You only get 10% increase in performance at most?
OC performance increase depends on the CPU, whether it was a good “batch”, and the cooler. I’ve overclocked the 3 Q6600s safely with air cooling from 2.4ghz to ~3.2ghz (~33% increase). I just put in a Core i7 950 and haven’t had a chance to OC, but I have an H50 in there and from what I’ve read of others with the same setup, they were able to get it from 3.2 to 5.0ghz+.
I originally OC’d because I had a really good chip (high 11x multiplier)…an E4500 stock 2.2 OC’d to 3.0 on air with no problems at all. Probably could’ve gone higher, but I was happy with that. Also, my RAM actually runs better over-volted (there was even a sticker from the manufacturer that listed optimal settings at 2.2v vs. 1.8v stock). Mind as well up the FSB since the RAM could take it too. I do a lot of video encoding & math calculations so that helped a lot.
Now I moved to a Q9300 and that’s harder to OC with my current board because of the pitiful 7.5x multiplier, but the extra cores are definitely worth it. It’s more efficient since it’s 45nm too. Maxed my RAM out with my chip running at 3.0GHz from 2.5GHz stock. Definitely notice the increase in speed, so in my opinion, it was worth it.
But nothing sped up my system more than an SSD…even with the cheapo one I got. Can’t wait to upgrade to a Sandforce SSD, but won’t do that until I get a SATA 6Gbit/s board and an i7 proc.
A solid state drive will decrease load times because it is faster than a HDD, the issue of long term data retention and failures is constantly mentioned but at this point we do not have long term studies on the subject. Cost is a big concern, I must admit I want one and have the hardware to run it but am still holding back because of the costs. Do you have sata 3.0 connections on your motherboard, if not you do not need SSD.
Oh and if we are going to continue to have this conversation, please lets all understand the words; latency and bandwidth.
I have way too many games I play too often for anything less than a 256GB SSD to be big enough, and that shit’s expensive. That’s why I have the 300GB velociraptor instead. And I’m just talking programs installed on it, everything is stored on my RAID 5 array that’s not an installed game or program.
Dare I say it? Casemods is actually posting some interesting shit.
This and the last case you got are both fucking ugly.
Can’t wait to see your hello kitty case hun
Lets begin shall we? Your PSU is upside down. The air intake is sucking in desk not air.
To be fair, the PSU is right side up. The fan is on the bottom and there is space for air circulation.
It’s blowing out cold air (well, at least what I can feel of the 120mm on slowest setting, which is silent)
Do you have any feet on the bottom of your case? You’ll need some for your PSU to pull in some air through that intake directly below it.
My PSU is mounted the same as yours and my Coolermaster CM690 case has huge rubber feet just for pulling in air.
This.
Yeah it has about 1/4 inch on from the feet.
It has the same in the case as well, not sure why, since it bypasses the dust filter….
It looks like the case has an air vent in the bottom and is supposed to be elevated for the PSU to be able to suck in air from outside the case. But all I see are the rubber feet on the inside letting it suck in air already in the case. (Still not cut off from airflow by any means, but pulling cooler air in from outside the case to the inside. Easy cheap casemod (haha, yeah I know) would beto buy rubber feet from like a hardware store and stick em on the bottom outside of the case. then block the PSU from pulling air through that gap inside the case and it’ll get direct cool external air.
Agreed…I have mine flush with the bottom of the case and it pulls directly from the outside & exits out the back.
I find it odd the way it’s setup now.
Alright, I have a few minutes to sit down and write so let me run through this;
As previously mentioned your PSU is mounted the wrong way up, if you are so concerned about air flow you should be able to understand this. Either you need to flip it or raise the case off the surface of the desk with feet or a stand. The problems with the PSU being cheap and underpowered are one thing but those Ultra PSU’s have a reputation for over heating anyway and while you irritate the hell out of me I don’t want your PC to melt. Very average to poor efficiency and poor ripple suppression. They do have nice quiet fans though.
In your other post when I mentioned sleeving you said ‘I wanted to get cable sleeves, but then I was informed that I would have to remove all of the connections to do so.’ This is so amazingly dumb for someone called casemods I can but stare in wonder at it. Yes you have to remove the molex connectors, it’s the first thing you learn to do modding, or you get a PSU sleeved by the manufacturer. The Corsair modular PSUs come highly recommended by me.
The other thing you mentioned is your graphics card overheating and crashing beyond 67C, the 5770 ‘should’ be able to take that temperature If you do some searches on that graphics card and temperatures you should see that it should be able to handle about another 10-20 degrees without crashing, that is something you should investigate further.
woah. Douche.
I hope you are not a sockpuppet.
This one needs a firm hand, a bit of a brutal spanking. If you can come up with a rebuttal go ahead, I am working off of this guy who seems to have been trolling you guys for months if not years! Some of us spend our whole lives making wonderfull gorgeous computers, we take pride in our skill and understanding; and then we have… that.
Obvious troll is obvious, brutal put down is required.
I’m trying to help too. I’m the kind of guy that can’t stand his friends bad cable management jobs and so redoes it for them compulsively 😛
My cunt hurts.
Let me make it feel better